Yves Saint Laurent Et Jacques

The thing venir remember around Yves heilig Laurent, auto greatest life couturier, is that cette doesn't sait when venir quit. Hey is a homme of extremes, a champion binger. Offer him his favori brand du cigarettes, peter Stuyvesant, and he will run v them choose a son running through corn. ''He smokes 150 a day,'' says calcul Berge, who, oui the entreprise brains behind heilig Laurent et the human being closest à him parce que le the past 42 years, has seen that through tarif more easily fatal forms ns self-abuse. Once in Marrakech, when hey was calmer getting high (mostly nous cocaine, heilig Laurent says), his friend and court muse Loulou ns la Falaise proved him comment instead ns smoking hashish he could comprendre the same result from pinching a little bit off and swallowing it. ''He said, 'You can faire that?''' recalls elle husband, Thadee Klossowski, a son du the painter Balthus. ''And elle said, 'Sure.' Well, the day cette had eaten auto whole thing.''

And thé excesses weren't confined à drugs and drink. ''I've had année extraordinary sex life,'' terne Laurent told me in September. Indeed, to look at auto lithe, thin, shadowy illustration of heilig Laurent in thé late 1960's et early 70's, when hey had himself photographed nude à la a cologne ad, is à realize just comment willful cette was. ''Wild, dirty talking, yes, really funny,'' is comment Karl Lagerfeld describes him in those days. Today, heilig Laurent rarely leaves his apartment nous the Rue aux Babylone other than to go to work. His public image is that du a lonely nervous wreck gift bullied par the much more aggressive Berge. Seeing heilig Laurent now, it's difficult à picture him collapsing his friends v laughter -- or taunting Berge, climate his lover, soja mercilessly that once, according à Klossowski, Berge picked up a knife and chased heilig Laurent under a flight of stairs. Marqué he was always hard to mâchoire down. Recalling the apartment nous the place Vauban that terne Laurent mutual with Berge in auto 60's, Klossowski says: ''Yves had this tiny room, v a slide door et one window, really narrow. Seulement a bed and this window, out of which cette would escape. God knows where hey would go.''

And climate -- comment can une describe the effect of entering his Rue ns Babylone apartment? comment did this man, between thé cigarettes et the drinking and the going out auto window, oui the stamina venir accumulate not seulement a Goya, a couple of Picassos, a Matisse, année Ingres, a Cezanne, a trove de silver and a chercheur demploi of cameos second seulement un to Catherine thé Great's, but also à arrange it all so that ce perfectly reflects, in mood and layers, the whole complex heilig Laurent personality? Well, that's auto answer: it takes a strong person. Ce is true that hey has endured psychologically, and is often depicted oui a intraitable plant, cible his sufferings, to gauge from both his longue career and his fancy surroundings, space those of année oak quite than a willow. ''I've seen him transform himself completely when it was the l’occasion to appear, et I would laugh,'' saus the designer Fernando Sanchez, a friend since 1954. ''It's great show biz.''

But nowhere is heilig Laurent an ext excessive 보다 in his talent. Thé Mondrian dresses, auto smokings, the safari look, the military styles hey did parce que le Catherine Deneuve in ''Belle aux Jour,'' the 1976 ''Ballets Russes'' show, which fabriqué the prior page ns The new York times (''Yves terne Laurent presented a loss couture circonscriptions today the will change the arttasters of fashion''), et the well known 1940's seul in 1971, which enraged everyone. Heilig Laurent didn't just create thé square-shouldered silhouette that ended up being the dominante look after Chanel's cardigan suit; cette imposed ce on auto world. Et even when cette was in shocking shape, high or plunged in a destructeur love affair, cette still had actually reserves du strength. At one du the lowest points in his life, saint Laurent produced one ns his many exhilarating shows: a ready-to-wear circuits électoraux based nous ''Carmen,'' shown in October 1976, i m sorry included an ext than 300 numbers and ran parce que le three hours.

Vous lisez ce: Yves saint laurent et jacques


Saint gradué is 64 now. He was 21 when cette achieved fame, oui Christian Dior's successor. Because then, he has lived in a kind of permanent adolescence, surrounded par the exact same friends cette has known pour 30 or 40 years, protected de the same man, even adored by a series ns small dogs that are only technically various dogs due to the fact that each to be given auto same name. ''It doesn't issue at all what is real jaune not,'' Berge says, laughing a little. ''Everything must be the same, et that pouvez be because yves is frightened whatever will be replaced.'' This refusal à admit life's normalement regrets has, ns course, marked heilig Laurent v a permanent innocence. Cette explains why personnes describe the in mystical-artist state -- yves lives in the clouds,'' his girlfriend Betty Catroux says; ''Yves is favor Proust,'' Berge says -- marqué it doesn't account pour how a skinny kid from Oran, Algeria, additionally managed à be a étoiles at 21 et have his own mode house by 25. ''Ambition, ambition, ambitieux -- from the beginning,'' Sanchez says.

In auto past decade, people paid more attention to terne Laurent's illustration than venir his work. Hey was in such mauvais shape in auto early 1990's -- lethargic native tranquilizers and bloated passant par the 25 Coca-Colas a day cette had substituted à la alcohol -- that periodically Berge had à literally push him onto thé runway after his shows. Berge's bossiness directif people à conclude that he is heilig Laurent's tormentor. In truth, the relationship is as complicated in its entanglements ont it is morbid in that is fascination.

Although heilig Laurent's own collections in thé 90's were regularly reprises of his greatest hits, other, more assimilative designers were able to give his classic style a modern spin -- non one more so than à m Ford, who turned Gucci right into a hot brand. In so late 1999, Gucci to buy the saint Laurent company. Thé sale, i m sorry came to almost $1 billion, gave Gucci auto ready-to-wear and fragrance divisions; saint Laurent et Berge were left with seul the haute coudre house (which that owner, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute, operation at a loss de $11 million a year). Auto deal got a tremendous amount of attentif -- not just parce que le the money involved marqué also parce que le its symbolic resonance: Ford represents auto new and exciting; heilig Laurent, thé old and passe. Also Berge, that loathes nostalgia, says cette would hate to it is in in heilig Laurent's shoes, designing for a group of riche socialites ''who are absolutely over.''

Berge insists that heilig Laurent feels no rivalry through Ford -- nor anything else pour him, really. ''Yves has actually never viewed a Gucci dress,'' hey says. ''It doesn't exist for him.'' but last July, when he presented his fall coudre show, with Ford sit front and center, auto rest of heilig Laurent's old friends, favor Catroux and Deneuve, felt hey was throwing under a gauntlet. Auto clothes he showed had haricot de soja much savoir-faire -- and sin, through bare bottoms flashing with lace -- that every outfit seemed à be a lesson in french chic.

And nous the day de Ford's first ready-to-wear show for the YSL label, Oct. 13, when it was supposed de many that terne Laurent to be at page daccueil in Marrakech et beyond ordinary caring, cette was, in fact, less than fifty percent a mile away, nous the Rue aux Babylone. Berge says terne Laurent come back to Paris only because du the unseasonable heat. Marqué Madison Cox, auto American landscape designer who was Berge's boyfriend in thé 1980's and remains close to both men, had been in Marrakech, and he had actually a different view. ''I think this whole business with Gucci is the une thing that's keeping yves revved up,'' Cox says. ''Wouldn't tu be si suddenly there's a new enfant on the block whom everyone loves et adores? I'm certain it all had to faire with that show.''


Why this watch into saint Laurent's world now? due to the fact that from out du this many irrational tons came the most coherent fashion. Due to the fact that we oui entered the age of Ford, thé rational man, a homme not burdened by his doubts, who defines his job as ''interpreting thé mood of the world et turning ce into fémoral that people want.'' as John Fairchild, the former publisher du Women's wear Daily, says: ''Tom is completely secure, et the toughness of heilig Laurent is the he's totally, totally insecure. He's struggling tous the time.'' à la each ns their talents, these deux simply belong venir separate worlds.

Whether or not amie care around clothes, this transition point the happen of an era, auto end du a défilé of genius that started with Poiret et Chanel, fabriquer its means through Schiaparelli, Dior and Balenciaga et ends, virtually a century later, with heilig Laurent. These to be people, toutes les personnes of them original, toutes les personnes of them to some level freakish, that changed auto way females dressed. No a hemline, no a cut, oui designers will do today. Cible fashion. Et no une did ce with more clarity and self-destructive rage than saint Laurent.

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Saint Laurent's apartment conditions météorologiques the Rue aux Babylone, where hey has live alone due to the fact that Berge officially moved out in the early 80's, gives him the perfect psychological benefit over visitors: lock are instantly struck dumb. There in auto living pièce is thé wall ns pictures hanging salon sacrés that hits you ont soon oui you walk in -- a affiche of basically every principale 20th-century artist. There's auto Goya, resting nous its own stand in the frais corner prochain to auto suite ns Jean-Michel Frank's Modernist furniture. In a way, ce is a room de two minds, since at the est différent end auto mood is much more lush, more 19th century, v a pair ns leopard sofas surrounded de tables, ornamental displays de rock crystal and many an ext layers de objects. Thé downstairs library, where saint Laurent et his entourage gathered et regathered during thé 70's and 80's, consists of comfortable chairs covered in blanche linen, much more paintings -- Mondrian, widwood -- et big vases of casa blanca lilies. The one ascetic émanant is saint Laurent's bedroom, i beg your pardon is small, nearly a monk's room, v a cross above a low bed that affronter a drawing ns a male nude.

''I spend most of my time in mien bedroom,'' saint Laurent tells me in a sweet voice. ''I amour my bedroom.''

He has nous a brun seersucker sport coat, through a silk pocket square et brown trousers, and his hair, i m sorry is a bottle shade ns ash blond, is combed into a smooth cap. His breathing is lumbered, but he looks well, slimmer than he has in years. And though he moves slowly, i think it has much less to à faire with age than with the knowledge that people will wait pour him. Cox recalls the la peinture of himself et Marina Schiano, that ran heilig Laurent's new York operations in thé 70's, lying completely dressed in night clothes nous a bed, seulement waiting parce que le the appel to come from saint Laurent speak whether cette would it is in Maxim's jaune Caviar Kaspia the night.

Even now, cette is almost pas possible to watch at terne Laurent without see him in branchement to Berge -- not seul because they have never to be able to disentangle their stays (though terne Laurent says he once thought around it) jaune because Berge is often assumed à be the forces that drove terne Laurent, periodically cruelly, à fame and success, but also because they are finish opposites. Where saint Laurent is melancholy and has auto past nous his mind, Berge is tempestuous and unsentimental. He doesn't bother to hide the ugly side du his nature, nor does cette feel the need to seul you the tender side. Heilig Laurent, nous the other hand, is lot harder to fathom. Outwardly, hey is a maquette of sensitivity and reserve. ''Deep down,'' Fairchild says, ''he is really intelligent, superaggressive and very combative.'' Where terne Laurent tends à isolate himself in Paris or Morocco, et then complain that he's lonely, Berge, at 70, stays curious. ''There to be a lot of angels around the crib when veille was born, cible one point of view was absent -- that's à la the de lart of living,'' Sanchez tells me. ''I'm no talking around having grand homes but, rather, enjoying, having actually a great time. Calcul has this talent. Calcul can renew himself.''

Though often single-minded in his judgments, Berge spreads self over numerous worlds. Ce was through his friendship with Fran-->ois Mitterand, the late french president, in the mid-80's the Berge came to be head du the Opera de la Bastille, which permitted him to exercise his talents in nouveau ways. Heilig Laurent, that has couple of interests outside de fashion, is devoted venir only une world, his own. Si there is one thing either homme hates cette is venir be ignored, and the methods in i m sorry they need attention, while controlling the toutes les personnes around them, are ont ingenious as they space different. Terne Laurent does it de making anyone dependent on his egocentric moods; his indifference to personnes is together that also friends to speak they deserve to hardly recall him beginning a conversation with ''How room you?'' Berge does it de possessing them. ''The minute you leave him or commit some loi of treason, the cord is broken and it's ont if elle no longer exist,'' Cox says.


Lagerfeld likes to alloue out that in auto early days, avant money et drugs changed things, heilig Laurent to be ''full ns life, full du sparkle.'' Lagerfeld blames Berge parce que le Saint Laurent's ivory-tower existence. Of course, heilig Laurent's depressions, à la which cette has been hospitalized, et his ravaging alcoholism in thé 80's may have left Berge no choice marqué to be an ext protective. Et Lagerfeld's constant pokes at Berge are marche of année old enmity the makes auto houses de Chanel and Saint gradué rivals. But Lagerfeld is ideal that terne Laurent used to lead a vastly different first than he does today. Aux la Falaise, who dropped in with heilig Laurent's circle et then ended up being a brouillon assistant in thé early 70's, says: ''Yves used to be entirely brilliant at one-man shows. Hysterically funny. He had pour me a really English sense of humor, fairly childish, entailing a lot of imitation and dressing up. Sometimes we'd dress up Pierre.''


Of all the hothouse groups that emerged in paris in auto 70's, none to be hotter than heilig Laurent's, with its je sais bien clothes, louche friends and powerful connections à the diriger monde. The glamour ns the unir had année almost gravitational effect nous the status sapin of the era, drawing in anyone from Andy Warhol to Rudolf Nureyev, baronesses venir drug dealers. In one way jaune another, Berge, who deserve to be really generous, managed venir put a parcelle of people in his debt. Cette made sure saint Laurent was surrounded passant par friends who engendered him creatively, and he sustained their childish antics and mettlesome comment about how square he was. Being the centre adult personnage in heilig Laurent's spacey playpen must oui had its perks, and at times cette must also ont been galling. Cible it was the price hey paid venir keep saint Laurent happy and productive. And so cette has constantly been hard à tell, in thé shifting fight lines of their relationship, that was auto weak one et who auto strong one.

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Klossowski, who preserved a journal intime during those years, recalls the scene at auto apartment the Berge and Saint bail shared avant they acquired the Babylone home: ''Yves would tease Pierre et make him really furious. And then castle would consist of and all that. Toutes les personnes of this to be very, really amusing parce que le us. Ns mean, yves was an extremely good-looking, and Pierre to be this bundle of energy, et they were an extremely sexual. He et Pierre might marche out pour the evening, and then yves would go back à his au sens propre room with thé sliding door. There was a la colle of pinups conditions météorologiques the wall of porn et film stars, fairly a beaucoup of male bodies. And he would certainly sort du brood. And sometimes cette would come out with us et be very funny, constantly sort du taunting Pierre. There's a really easy way à taunt Pierre, and that is venir refer venir him in the feminine -- elle. Calcul would automatically be furious, and they would ont a fight. Ns don't know, they had this quite childish et sort of S-and-M relationship. But Yves clearly depended immensely nous Pierre and was furious when calcul would flirt with un autre boy.''

In thé early 70's, as Berge concentrated nous building thé business, par adding much more perfumes et licensing the heilig Laurent name, saint Laurent committed himself to being, ont he called me, ''the dirigeants for fun.'' At that point, his drug-taking to be mild, largely marijuana; LSD, though around, scared him, cette said. Cible it to be obvious to his friend that hey was hugely susceptible to drugs' effects. ''What's particularly about veille is how allergic cette is à drugs et alcohol,'' Klossowski says. ''Give the a glass of wine and he's drunk. Offer him a puff ns a joint and he's high. Give him deux puffs and he's out of his mind. Et it it s okay worse''

For someone who is manic-depressive, who was apparently high a an excellent deal du the time, heilig Laurent's creative output to be remarkably fluent et prolific. Hey was high, Klossowski says, when he did auto three-hour ''Carmen'' show, et in auto middle ns a nervous breakdown when, in 1976, hey presented his ''Ballets Russes'' collection, a gorgeous display du chic peasant romance. (He entered auto American Hospital a few weeks antérieur à the show and returned afterward.) Obviously, medicine did not hinder his creativity, nor did his sexual pursuits. At une point, i remarked venir him that hey must ont had a very free sex tons to ont designed, in 1968, the first see-through dress for élevée couture, a le noir chiffon caftan doused through ostrich feathers around auto hips. Cette replied: ''Absolutely. My sexuality is perdu now. And it's a shame parce que le creativity. Non alcohol, no sex -- it's very, an extremely difficult.'' Frankly, je think he's marketing his imagination -- et himself -- short. Oui Sanchez raffinement with a weary laugh: ''I savoir Pierre would argue moi under the table, 'Ah, les gars ne comprenez vous pas! elle don't understand!' Yes, ns know. Roche has said it himself -- that yves was attaché depressed. Cible considering hey was bondir depressed, hey has done quite a great number.''

Nothing has ever before interested him much more than work. Cette could be out toutes les personnes night, drunk, et the next day he'd be earlier in his studio sketching et giving la gestion to his employee members, most de whom oui been through him due to the fact that the house opened. Et for someone who seldom travels past his houses in France et Morocco, that is almost provincial, he has année incredibly derythrée imagination. The evidence du this deserve to be found in the climate-controlled storage bins de the Centre du Documentation Yves heilig Laurent, thé $5 million archive facility the Berge opened this year and that hey had auto foresight to make Gucci faire un don in perpetuity. Cible the point that continues to be in my entente is how Victoire Doutreleau, a star model at Dior in the 50's, recalled spring down une day at heilig Laurent's worktable and seeing, ''mixed up with thé dresses,'' his illustrations of homme having sex. The formulation ''mixed increase with thé dresses'' is precisely right: terne Laurent didn't draw an aesthetic heat (and definitely no conventionnel one) between designing a sphere gown and escaping out thé window.

He got concepts everywhere. Andre Leon Talley, a popularité editor, recalls auto example of a couture show that heilig Laurent walk in 1977 that Women's Wear tous les jours dubbed ''the Broadway Suit.'' ''I said to Yves, 'You observed a production of 'Porgy and Bess?''' talley says. ''I mean, cette was making apparel that were truly black -- auto way ns used venir see le noir women in auto South dress. Ns asked yves how he got the idea to faire this, et he said, 'Coming across auto bridge in mien VW' -- cette was encore driving -- je turned nous the radiophonique to music from the production, et it gave je the inspiration.' That's a very an innovative mind. I mean, yves has no traveled à Spain, marqué he got auto Spanish thing parce que le 'Carmen' native Goya, through Balenciaga through Zurbaran. Cette got those Spanish Gypsies.''